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Day 1: Marburg and Limburg

The first thing I noticed about Germany, peering out the window as the plane descended towards Frankfurt, were the myriad of red rooftops and the vast fields of yellow flowers. I would later find out that these are rapp (sp?) plants, cultivated for oil; rapeseed, perhaps? In a strange way, the landscape was kind of like rural Kansas, or rather, one’s idea of what rural Kansas should look like – more quaint and charming, with the gentle glow of the sunlight warming the brilliant yellow and verdant green acres. These shots of the landscape would work really nicely for our “Beef: It’s What’s for Dinner” commercials, with strains of Aaron Copland in the background.

yellow flowers

At first go we speculated this was chamomile, and that Germans just really like their sleepy tea. Ahh, fields of drowsy flowers.

E picked me up from the airport – he had been there for a week before I came, visiting his grandmother. I’d come in the morning, determined to stubbornly ignore any symptoms of jet lag. Knocking myself out with Dramamine on the overseas flight seemed to do the trick, and I was well rested enough for us to immediately set off for Marburg.

The town sits upon a hill, with the requisite castle on top. For maximum gemütlich, the buildings nestle cozily next to each other. The modern part of Marburg is towards the bottom of the hill, where stores like H&M and the German equivalent of Best Buy are located. You can take an elevator to the older, higher area; before we got on, E told me that we were going on “a magical journey to an older time.” (He’s quite silly.)

Marburg

Not exactly a time warp, but it’ll do.

Marburg

Ye Olde Shopping in Marburg.

Marburg

View from the top of the hill, outside the castle. The med students at Marburg have their dorm here. (I wonder where the lowly art students dwell!)

Marburg

The University at Marburg has a campus legend (similar to that regarding KU’s bronze jayhawk statue) that if a virgin graduates, this tower will straighten itself. I guess campus virgin legends are universal.

Marburg

Another view from the top.

Marburg

E explained that the graffiti here is the remains of a grand project to “artify” the area by…spraypainting the names of diseases on the steps? Maybe not quite so gemütlich.

Marburg

Church in Marburg.

Marburg

This is a town crazy who stands in front of the church every day. Her job is to yell incoherently at passers-by. She takes her job very seriously.

Marburg

I forget what this is exactly – remainders of Roman ruins, perhaps?

We walked around for a bit, getting pleasantly lost in the many twisty alleyways, and had lunch at Cafe 1900 (now just 1900, I think). Now E had been craving this particular dish served in Marburg called “auflauf,” which consists of a fondue-like pot of cheese (burnt on the top, this is a key element), with other ingredients mixed in (I had spinach, feta cheese and potatoes; he had turkey, mushrooms and pasta). Simple and tasty, and waaaay too much food for one person to handle – I had suggested sharing one, but E was greedy and wanted his own. I also had my first taste of German beer, which, by default, comes in 0.5L glasses! We had some Hefeweizen, a light wheat beer, mixed with a shot of banana juice. I’m not entirely sure, but this first impression might have affected the way I taste Hefeweizen from then on; to me it always tastes of bananas, with the juice or no.

Stuffed to the gills, we headed off to the car, where we found the work of Marburg anarchists:

Marburg

Punk-rock Volkswagen.

We got into our decidedly not-punk car and set off for Limburg, another nearby town. E wasn’t as familiar with Limburg, so we just wandered around aimlessly. The great thing about these towns is that they are so utterly charming in and of themselves, there’s no pressure to go see specific things; one can just roam about at a leisurely pace and have a lovely time.

Limburg

By the river in Limburg.

Limburg

I hope these people didn’t think I was stalking them. Hello! I am tourist!

Limburg

Gemütlich German houses.

Limburg

The buildings here looked like they were lifted from an amusement park or a Dr. Seuss novel.

Limburg

Limburg Church, also adorably Seussical in appearance.

Limburg

Seems like a typical Limburg street at first, but then…

Limburg

…hey, it’s German Sesame Street! (or rather, Sesame Strasse, auf Deutsch)

We were still absurdly full from the auflauf, but got some gelato anyway, as that is what you do in Europe. Then, tired from overeating, we waddled back to the car and stayed the night at E’s oma’s house in Hohr-Grenzhausen. That wrapped up the first day of my trip! Next up, we’re heading southeast to Austria and the sunny Alps! Tschüss!

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2 Comments

  1. Faye wrote:

    Ohhhhh, I wish you could have taken me with you. What quaint buildings, like stepping back in time, living in fairy tales. Fascinating history throughout. I’d need more time to take it all in. Thank you for sharing with us.

    Oh and how is my octopus #2 coming along???? I know you’ve been busy, just reminding you like you told me to.

    Sunday, May 6, 2007 at 1:49 am | Permalink
  2. C. wrote:

    “Stuffed to the gills, we headed off to the car, where we found the work of Marburg anarchists:”

    That’s not an anarchist’s car. It’s the logo of the Jesus Freaks, a Protestant youth movement. Actually, I know the guy who the car belongs to, and he’s a youth pastor :)

    Tuesday, August 16, 2011 at 10:05 pm | Permalink

One Trackback/Pingback

  1. Yet more “gemütlich” | on Tuesday, May 8, 2007 at 4:04 pm

    [...] “Karenology”, die Amerikanerin, die kürzlich im Nassauer Land unterwegs war, hat inzwischen auch einige Betrachtungen über Limburg nebst Fotos in ihr Weblog gestellt. Dabei kann man die Bezeichnung “Nassauer Land” sehr stark erweitert verstehen, denn ihr Eintrag handelt deutlich mehr von Marburg als von Limburg. Aber von der US-Perspektive aus gesehen ist hier wohl so ziemlich alles “nearby”. [...]

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