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Ticket to Ride

A day into the new year, and I’ve fulfilled my first resolution! After tearing apart both my apartment and classroom, alerting the upper echelons of school and alarming all my friends and family back home who are waiting eagerly to see me in less than two weeks – I finally found it, wedged in some random pocket of a purse I never wear. Contrary to that dumb adage “it’s always in the last place you look” (well durr – once you find it, generally you stop looking), I swear I’d checked that purse before, but obviously hadn’t given it a thorough pat down. This little blue thing is inked with bureaucratic verbiage from eight different countries. I just need to fill up a few more pages, and then I hope I get a free drink.

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The New Year

We’re getting close to the end, folks:

Eli sometimes says he’ll grow up and be Adult (responsibility-wise, not porno-wise) after the end of the world. I think that entails settling down, buying a house, and working a job with a dress code, or something. He also says maybe he’ll do this after he turns thirty-two. Both of which are slated to occur this year. (I’m thinking maybe he’ll need to find a new deadline…)

Here are my resolutions, in order of urgency:

1. FIND MY PASSPORT, OMG, WTF. I’ve torn my apartment apart looking for the blasted thing. I think it’s in with a big stack of papers at school. My co-teacher asked me a couple times to bring my passport back to school so the secretary ladies could…I dunno, make another copy of it. I don’t know why they couldn’t just use an old copy, since it’s not like it changed in the last year, and now I’m ultra grumpy because it’s totally THEIR fault I’m a disgusting mess and can’t find it. I’m hoping some kid didn’t just see it lying around and walk off with it as a souvenir.

2. On a related note, clean my work space – both at home and at school. Right now, on my table, I am typing next to: a double pack of batteries, a cake decorating kit, origami paper half-way fashioned into a 3d snowflake, an empty tin of cookies, a flyer for my students’ NYE rock concert (awesome!), a sock, credit cards, a knitting project, my winter camp roll list, and feminine hygiene products (not used. I’m bad but not Courtney-Love-levels of terrible). I can’t even fathom how I’ve managed to rack up so much clutter over the course of 15 months in another country. I might just have to set it all ablaze when I leave. (Maybe North Koreans will take care of that for me!)

3. Blog more often than once a century. I say this every year. Ha!

I definitely want to write more letters, but I feel bad forcing people to decipher my handwriting. Maybe I should include a kind of cryptogram key to help the receiver out.


4. Write more letters to people. Before I left for Korea, I bought vintage postcards, put my new address on them and distributed them out to my friends, to make it easier for them to write to me while abroad. Pasted on my wall are all these lovely missives from friends, which cheered me up at low points during the year, and filled my little apart-eu with warmth and character! For my part, I have repaid exactly 0% of what was sent to me. Yeah, so email and Facebook have rendered dead trees obsolete. There’s still something grand and lovely about receiving real mail, smelling of paper and of musty post offices around the world. Kids these days will never know what it’s like to experience delayed gratification, to have to wait with bated breath for the magical postman to deliver. (Maybe there’s an app for that – post your tweet and it won’t appear until five days later, and half of it will be missing)

5. Work on music. Part of the clutter I’ve managed to accumulate while here includes musical instruments (yes, more than one. I know, it’s sick). The guitar I strum with occasional frequency, but the keyboard…yeah, that thing. It’s been standing up on one end, gathering dust. Every now and then, I feel bad for it and rotate it so that it’s standing up on the other end. I think I’ll purchase a stand for it, and that will magically make me start playing it more, because buying more things is always the solution.

6. Learn more Korean, so that I can at least have one transaction in public that doesn’t descend into a terribly lengthy game of Charades or Pictionary. If I feel that I am leaving the impression of mere mild mental retardation, that will be a major success.

I’m sure there are more resolutions I can create and not follow, but six is a good number. Happy New Year, everybody! If you’re near a Koreatown, try and eat a big bowl of ddeokguk (rice cake soup) to herald the new year:

Simple and delicious! Recipe at maangchi.com.

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The Mamas and the Papas

The semester is winding down here in Korean public schools, and with it come all sorts of weird schedule changees, pizza parties and miscellaneous other things. Tomorrow, my classes are canceled on account of this marathon 4-period long assembly in which they’re trying, AGAIN, to get the students to eschew curse words in favor of polite language. The only thing this will accomplish is to give some of the teachers a brief respite from having to deal with these potty mouth monsters for half a day, but it’s certainly welcome.

Today, after 7th period, all the students convened in the gym for a concert. “Oh, the students are performing again?” I asked my co-teacher, thinking it was a little repeat of the smashingly entertaining school festival we’d had in September. “No, it will be parents.” Zuh? I guess the parents of some of the 7th and 8th graders started a band, and decided to entertain the kids, in a mandatory way. One of the 9th graders whined to my co-teacher that she didn’t want to go, and my co-teacher responded, “You must.” (Of course, she bailed – convenient business away from school, I suppose).

I strolled in a few minutes after 3:00, as it is a Korean teacher’s prerogative to arrive fashionably late to everything (especially class). A few of the 9th graders strolled in with me. Henry, who is probably my favorite student ever, is this kid whose favorite trick used to be playing guitar with his teeth. Then he did it too often, I guess, and when I asked him if he was going to do that for the school festival, he rolled his eyes and went, “Teacha! Very very hurt! Pain!” (I guess he’d been asked one too many times.)

I sat at the back, with the few other teachers who hadn’t made other excuses to duck out, and the homeroom teachers, who were tasked with getting the restless students to stop hitting each other for a few minutes. The parents walked on to the stage and picked up their guitars. Yes, they were a rock band. I expected something like a choir or a classical concert, or something – actually, I really had no preconception of what a concert by parents staged in a middle school would really look like. There is just no similar analogue to that happening in the States. I just…can’t even picture it, as a hypothetical. Even the one girl I saw who kept slapping her friend with a folder every five seconds – even she was a much better audience for the parents than any middle schooler would be back home.

Anyway, the parents picked up their guitars and immediately launched into a song, an old-ish Korean rock song that I have heard so many times since arriving here. Henry, who sat behind me, groaned really loudly. “Every band always THIS song!” he said, and made a motion as if to strangle himself. He would alternately rock out with his buddy behind me, and then complain loudly about how boring the parent performance was. He was awesomely catty and bitchy, and I was nearly in tears from laughing at this kid. At one point, he leaned over and whispered, “wait a minute – soon, friends coming, and we burn this place down! YEAH!”

These are the only parents who should be allowed guitars. (Yes, I may actually be sadder about their divorce than I was when my own parents split up. )

The parents’ concert was really fascinating and bewildering, from my perspective. One of the students’ mothers sang a poignant, hyper-emo ballad, in English, and though she sang well enough, it felt a little awkward: yo lady, what are you doing baring your soul to these monsters? I guess it’s different when you birthed one of said monsters, but still, the other ones don’t have familial obligations to sit politely through your show. At one point there was a brief intermission with a magic show, and Henry just could not stop freaking out about how bizarre it was. “Magic show??! In concert?! Why? Very very mistake!” and between the weirdness of it all, and Henry being hilarious, I just about died laughing in that gym, and it really turned around a day which had been kinda shitty. I am definitely going to miss these 9th graders when they graduate and go off to high school, especially Henry.

Henry, by the way, invited me to a concert that he and his buddies are putting on, at the end of the month. He’s going to play guitar (not with his teeth), and he promised me two American pop songs, “so you can understand and enjoy!” and kept insisting that it would be a billion times better than this totally lame parents’ concert (aww, poor Moms and Pops! They honestly weren’t bad at all – it’s just that you surrender any semblance of “cool” when you birth a child). Henry talks a big game, and I’m totally looking forward to it. In all sincerity, really, I can’t think of a cooler place to be on New Year’s Eve.

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Kim Jong Il is dead

And so it happens – sooner than I expected it to happen, although in retrospect, the strokes he’d suffered last year probably should have been a clear indication of the beginning of the end.

I found out from a student – Tom, in fact. I didn’t have much time to react to this pretty impressive news, on account of all the other students clamoring for my attention. I asked my students what they thought was going to happen, and their answer is the same as everyone else’s: “I don’t know.”

According to the Times article, Kim Jong Il apparently died two days previously, and the announcement was not released until today. That does confirm the suspicion that I and many others have about Kim Jung Eun, the dynasty’s successor – this kid is so not ready for prime time. My hope and my worry is that the regime will absolutely crumble and disappear as a result of this newly created power vacuum. Ultimately, it’s good for the people of North Korea to come out under the thumb of this brutal and horrible dictatorship, and join the rest of the world.

I have my doubts as to whether or not South Korea is economically ready to absorb the impact of a sudden influx of refugees – perhaps the most destitute people in the world, no less. I also fear the last, desperate actions of a dying regime. Perhaps it’s not the best time to be living quite so close to the 38th parallel.

May you live in interesting times indeed!

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