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The Loneliness of a Middle School Foreign Teacher

Warning: this post is just a pure vomit pile of bitching and moaning (what UK’ers would call “whinging” with a soft “j” sound) and just general brattiness. But it’s my blog, so yeah. Deal with it. You’re probably not even reading this anyways.

First day back at school and a lot of things have changed so much that I can’t help but feeling the way I did exactly one year ago.

Both years, I came back from countries warm in both temperature and character, to return to Korea: which is a little frosty in both respects.* That makes me seem ungrateful for the many times when I have been treated well and welcomed warmly here (see: the Dog Lady for a recent example), and I really don’t mean to be this way. After all, this country has flown me out here, accommodated and employed me for over a year. But who knows if they’ll continue that for much longer, anyway. In my lowest moods here, sometimes I get the sense that I’m not really wanted or necessary here. Like, the whole country doesn’t want me. This is why, for instance, there’s exactly one line at passport control for foreigners coming into Incheon to get fingerprinted and added to a database to screen out the potentially shady, while there are like fifty gazillion lines open for Korean passport holders, some of whom look over at the foreigner line, snicker and mutter something about those “waygookin.” Sure made me thrilled to come back to the Hermit Kingdom, from a country that is basically a United Colors of Benetton advert.

And just when I felt like I was, if not exactly best chums with everyone in the teacher’s room, at least at a comfortable equilibrium with most – especially the Dog Lady and the Science Teacher, who called my classroom every morning to make sure I came in and got my cup of coffee – all those people ended up leaving to go to other schools, and now there’s a new batch of people. A lady I’ll call Cougar Teacher has returned this semester, and she’s the kind of person who wears a whole goddamned zoo in one outfit, from a foxfur hat to leopard print high heels. She just stares through me whenever I greet her in the hallways. There’s another teacher who straight up ignores me, too, because “영어를 못해,” she can’t speak English. I have learned a little more Korean by this point, still not enough to carry on a conversation or even to really carry a useful sentence, but encountering people like her just makes me not even really want to try.

And guess who I sat next to during the interminable teacher’s dinner tonight? Yes, these two ladies, though honestly probably my situation would not have been improved by sitting next to anyone else. They saw me coming and actually made my co-teacher get up from where she sat to go sit next to me, which I appreciated, but I also felt really bad because of the fact that I needed a social babysitter. I’m sure she wants to cut loose and gossip with her coworkers without having to translate every stupid little joke or wisecrack. So I was really conscious of trying not to monopolize her time. But then I was really bored. Like, severely bored. I’m aware there are worse fates out there than being bored while eating a free dinner. Still, once I’m done eating (which happens quickly, as I am merely chewing and don’t have conversation to distract me), my function at this event is over and then I am just…taking up space. Wishing I had a smart phone because it seems totally acceptable to text at the dinner table, but not really okay to just pull out my iPad and start playing “Cut the Rope” or whatever. Feeling like I did in elementary school, when I had selective mutism and no friends except the dandelions in the schoolyard.

Donna, the art teacher, spoke pretty abysmal English (though worlds better than my Korean) and we were always having to go to the magical iPhone to connect the dots. That was a lot of fun, though, and it sure was a lot more fun for me than sitting there, pushing around already-been-chewed pork belly fat on my plate while the principal gets steadily drunker and more fired up to make speeches. Unfortunately, Donna left in this last mass exodus, too. As did almost all the teachers who didn’t seem to regard me as a moving piece of furniture, that doesn’t quite match the rest of the decor.

I’m definitely only still here for the students, though sometimes I even doubt how much they care for me. I’ve mentioned before how I feel all great and involved with these kids’ lives, only to attend one assembly and realize that I am only a tiny flicker in the blur of their school days. Today – and this is SERIOUSLY incredibly petty and stupid, and I know it – we had an opening assembly, and all of us teachers gathered on the stage. The principal read our names and each teacher stepped forward for applause. Maybe because the students usually greet me with a lot of enthusiasm when they see me in the hallways or out on the street, and write things like “you best teacher ever!” on my camp reviews, I was expecting cheers or at least one whoop for little (oh so humble) me. Nope…just polite, scattered clapping. Meanwhile, house was brought down for Cougar Lady, the P.E. teacher, and basically most of the other homeroom teachers.

Is it totally dumb and lame that I feel a little (okay, not so little!) hurt, and like my students don’t even love me and what am I doing here, wasting my free time, pouring my heart and soul into lesson plans and ways to make them learn any English at all besides “hi how are you fine thank you and you?” YES, it is, and I’m gonna keep feeling it anyway because this is a pity party of ONE, but with enough margarita mix** to fill a whole bachelorette party.


*Of course this feeling might reflect the result of being a worker in a foreign country, as opposed to a tourist. I was in Malaysia on a temporary basis, just passing through, and not taking nobody’s “jerrrb.” Tamara: you’d mentioned that you’d received such a warm embrace from random people during the World Cup, and yes I’ve encountered moments like that too. Maybe I’d feel the doldrums if I were trying to make a life for myself in Malaysia or the Philippines. At least it’d be warmer there and I’d like the food better, and I could go cry with the dolphins whenever I’m feeling down.

** Not really, cause where do I get margarita makings in this godforsaken country. Fuck.

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Malaysia Trip Summary

Warning / promise: this post is morbidly obese with food imagery.

Handy-dandy index of the gazillion Malaysia-related posts I made yesterday:
Malaysia: My New Favorite Country
Langkawi: a Beach Bum’s Paradise
Our Adventures with the Non-fighting Irish
Our Adventures with the Non-fighting Irish, part 2
On Traffic and Spaniards
On Watermelons and Gods

(This is seriously more posts than I usually make in six months. My eyes are kind of fuzzy from staring at the screen all day.)

I’ll say it again: I loved Malaysia. Like with the Philippines, as soon as I landed, I felt smiles and warmth all around. I think it’s the tropical clime cultures – it’s easy to smile when the weather is good, and food just falls from the trees.

Oh, but the eatin’ was good:

My favorite breakfast banana leaf curry stall. You choose what you want, and they wrap it up with rice in a big banana leaf as a handy takeaway container.

Eating the contest of a breakfast banana leaf on the patio of our first hostel, listening to jungle birds.

More banana leaf action. It's a beautiful substitute for a plate.

At a food stall in Little India. Simple but fantastic.

Meat on a stick: the Malaysia variant.

At a food court in Melaka Sentral station. That's a curried fish with greens and rice.

More takeaway, wrapped in a triangle. Left: spicy noodles, right: fried sweet potato.

Curried prawn soup. Almost everything I had was curried, now that I look back, but all tasted different, with complex flavor profiles of varying sweetness, heat, and depth.

Roti and fish curry in the morning. Why were people going into McDonald's?

At an open air food court in the old school Malay neighborhood near Kampung Baru station. Hardly anyone here spoke English and I think I was the only tourist. It was a bit of a trial ordering food, but it was so worth it.

The fish that the man was grilling in the previous photo. I still have no idea what fish that was. Possibly stingray? It had a soft, almost gelatinous texture, but wasn't too unctuous.

Last meal from Jalan Alor, before I had to dash through the rain to catch the monorail. Note to future self: green curried crab, while delicious, is maybe NOT the best dish to order when you have only five minutes in which to eat!

As you can see, gorging senselessly on food was the highlight of this trip. My sister and brother-in-law gave me a food stipend for Malaysia as a Christmas gift, and I certainly put it to good use.

At Merdeka Square.

My recommendation to travelers visiting Kuala Lumpur is to just go with the flow. Don’t get too obsessed with checking off the tourist destinations; I found them to be all right but by no means the best thing about the city. Go where the people go. Eat where the locals eat. The city is eclectic and ever-changing; in addition to the incredible parade I’d posted about, I also caught a glimpse of a street graffiti festival and a protest against an Australian rare earth minerals plant, within a short span of time. Allow yourself to get swept up in the madness.

The one thing on those tourist lists you should definitely be sure to visit, however, is this:

Jalan Alor: how I dream of thee! Such a little street, packed with so many things to eat.

Now I need to go run off this portly food baby I acquired while in Malaysia. Back to the grind!

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On Watermelons and Gods

By the riverside in Melaka.


On Twinkles’ last day, we made a brief jaunt down to the old Malaysian empire capital, a little town called Melaka. It was a pretty town, with lots of European influences in the architecture, in addition to the usual torrent of Chinese shops and Indian silks. A nice Marco Polo sort of town. We didn’t stay very long as we had to bust it back to KL for Twinkles to catch her flight home, but I was enchanted enough that I decided I’d come back some day.

I parted ways with Twinkles, and then suddenly found myself at a loss without a travel buddy. I’ve been accustomed to having somebody around on my travels – Eli, friends, relatives, etc. This was the first time I found myself totally alone in a new country. I wandered around a bit before going back to the hostel to cool off.

As soon as I walked in, the owner, a Malay guy named Patrick, introduced himself. Second thing he said to me: “do you drink?”

“Why, yes.”

“Then come out with us later! We’re meeting up to go to an indie bar around ten.”

Yes! I found my people, without even trying.

I ran out to go get a bowl of curry from my favorite little eat street, Jalan Alor, and on my way back, suddenly this very large and imposing dude, who looked like some sort of Nubian prince, fell into stride with me. “You are very beautiful.” Eep! He was a Saudi businessman, and he was approximately ninety feet tall. He wouldn’t leave my side until he managed to score a scrap of paper and write his phone number down for me, which I accepted with a meek Midwestern “thanks!” and scurried off. In retrospect, he was quite gentlemanly; nevertheless I wasn’t terribly interested in becoming this dude’s fourth wife or whatever.

I went back to the hostel and met up with the other people, and we eventually went out for drinks, danced, and had a great time. Afterwards, we went back to the hostel, where Patrick and some of the other guests had prepared a vodka watermelon: basically, they’d cut a hole into a watermelon and poured as much vodka as could fit, and then let it soak for hours. In my opinion, they’d ruined a perfectly good watermelon, but I ate it anyways and got a little bit way trashed off it.

The next morning, my last in KL, I had planned to get up early and see the Batu Caves: the last remaining major tourist destination on all those top 10 “Things to See in KL” sites. The effects of the watermelon significantly delayed things, and I didn’t end up getting out of the hostel until around 11:00.

I spotted that the monorail hadn’t left yet and dashed on, thinking I’d just caught it. The doors remained open, however, and it was just sitting there. “Attention monorail passengers: we apologize for the slight delay.” No biggie, I was in no huge rush, since the Batu Caves would apparently only take a few hours and I still had a full day to fill. Eventually the monorail moved on to the next station and broke down again, sitting there so long that most of the other passengers had given up in disgust, and I was able to find a seat.

An hour passed. Usually, by this point, I would have bailed. For some reason, possibly watermelon-related, I decided to just stay and wait it out, and maybe doze a little on the monorail. The other option would have been to roam around Bukit Bintang, my hostel’s neighborhood, and I’d already done quite a bit of that in the past few days. Plus, I’d paid a whole 2 ringits (less than $1) for the monorail fare, dammit, and I wasn’t just going to lose that.

Eventually the monorail got up and running again, and what would ordinarily be a 15 minute ride ended up turning into a two hour journey. I woke up from my nap and happened to look up just as the monorail was pulling into KL Sentral, the central hub where I would have to switch to get to the Caves, and saw through the window that there was a massive street parade happening. ! The Caves could wait; I had to catch that parade. I booked it off the monorail and ran around the street, trying to catch up. I caught a trail of crumpled papers, incense and ashes, and followed it right to the most incredible spectacle I have ever witnessed in my entire life.

I tried to snap photos and I even have some video which I’ll get around to editing at some point, but these hardly do it justice. At any given moment there were at least eight amazing things happening, so it was hard to know what to focus on. There’d be a guy with coconuts hanging from hooks off his back, smoking a cigar and swigging a beer while a woman in a jeweled sari washed his gnarled feet with brilliant yellow turmeric water. Or there’d be another guy, pulling the man behind him with strings that were attached to the first man’s back with deep hooks. There was a dude in Geisha makeup, sucking a pacifier. There was a deafening drum circle. There were always these dudes in strange dress trying to…I don’t know, maybe level up? with all these spectators cheering them on. There was a Chinese dragon dance. There were fireworks. There were women with long silky hair, interwoven with bright flowers. There was chaos.

One of the coconut men.


It's hard to tell from this picture, but the man in the center was alternately pulling and being pulled by the guy behind him with those ropes. The ropes were secured to his back with hooks. It looked QUITE painful and there were all these deep gashes in his back.


The colors were so vibrant, especially the yellows.


They used this turmeric water for washing feet, and also for washing the streets.


I really feel like this picture embodies the essence of Kuala Lumpur.


Squaring off in some kind of leveling-up dance. Like how technical I'm getting with the detail?


In the aftermath of the parade; a lot of coconuts got smashed.

It was the craziest and best thing that I’ve ever experienced firsthand. I felt like I was transported to India, by way of China. The neat and very Malaysian thing about it was that it was a perfect melding of all these disparate cultures. The sun was baking the top layer of my head off, I was dizzy from the loud chanting and the fireworks and smells of turmeric and incense, and I was soaked in sweat and also some of the turmeric water that flowed freely down the street. Maybe that’s what it takes to get a lifelong atheist to be a little contemplative about god(s). I did feel blessed, that it was extremely fortuitous that I managed to come here at the right time, of all places. If I hadn’t been late, if the monorail hadn’t broken down and if I hadn’t just decided to stick it out, I would have missed this. It was truly a series of serendipitous occurrences that led me to this magical experience.

All thanks to this watermelon:

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On Traffic and Spaniards

Traffic
One day, Twinkles and I had decided to take it easy, sleep in and relax in the morning. By the time we’d gotten ready to go out, the daily downpour in Kuala Lumpur had begun; nothing to do but wait until the outdoor shower was over. We sat at the entrance to the hostel, debating about purchasing an umbrella, when two gentlemen from Singapore, who were maybe in their late thirties / early forties, introduced themselves. They weren’t dressed in suits, but we could tell from their demeanor that they were businessmen. We chatted about music and various things. They were very nice, and at the same time they also seemed to be relentlessly networking. I’m not sure what branches Twinkles and I could provide to these people, being twenty-something English teachers in Korea and all, but we went and had lunch with them anyway.

I had been curious about this fragrant Thai place right next to the hostel, but the businessmen – one of whom was Indian, I believe, and the other Bengali – took one look at the place and politely suggested, “how about another place?” We ended up going to an Indian restaurant across the street. Had various curries on a banana leaf, which were all right, but the ordering process was so confusing that I didn’t quite end up with what I had wanted, and what I did end up getting wasn’t that impressive. Still, the businessmen footed the bill, so that bit was nice.

They asked us what we did, and we said we were English teachers in Korea (just like any other American they would encounter in Southeast Asia, basically). Then I asked what they did, and the Indian guy paused a bit before he said, “We’re headhunters.” That rang a bell in my head dimly, somewhere, but conscious me didn’t really quite understand until he elaborated further, with business jargon and such. “We’re in the business of importing a labor force from other countries, principally the Philippines, to supply Malaysian companies with a much-needed work force. You see, there’s a labor shortage here, especially in construction and domestic household care…” and so on and so forth. Huh.

I tried to figure out how to phrase good questions, but sadly I’m no journalist. At one point, the Bengali guy chimed in, maybe because he saw the worried look on my face, and said, “of course we’re not wanting any of these workers to be exploited or anything.”

“Oh, so do you have any mechanisms in place to check that?”

“What do you mean?”

“Like, do you follow up with the companies and make sure the workers are being treated fairly?”

“Oh, no, we don’t do any of that.” They simply recruit in the home country, do the paperwork and bring the workers over, and hand them off to the company. After that, the workers aren’t their responsibility anymore. I thought back to all the articles I’ve read on human trafficking, and wondered, “is this how it really happens?” I’m usually a realist, but I guess for some reason I always just assumed that there was always some kind of Bond villain involved in such cases, cackling to himself about the gullible poors he’d duped and enslaved, while petting a fluffy white cat or something. Even so, I’m reluctant to stick these dudes with the potential label of “traffickers,” purely for this dumb reason: they were so nice. I couldn’t see these guys seizing people’s passports and telling them they owed billions of US dollars in contractual fees that they needed to pay off. But of course they wouldn’t be doing that, if it even happened. It would be somebody at the company who hired these guys to bring the workers over. Maybe not even the company itself, but a third party whose specialization is processing foreign workers.

That’s the key, I’m starting to think – exploitation occurs when you get lots of people together from different transnational companies, whose principal goal is to make profit, and who are strongly incentivized to pass the responsibility of human care and rights to someone else. It’s not any one person’s actions, perhaps, so much as an entire habitat of shit.

Anyway, these guys really were very pleasant to talk to, and we got a free lunch out of it. And something to think about.

The High Maintenance Spaniards

Twinkles and I were in the crazed mess that is the Kuala Lumpur Chinatown, weaving through streams of people and stalls full of knockoff handbags, sunglasses, stupid T-shirts, etc. I stopped at a stall to pick up a stupid T-shirt for Eli, and engaged in the haggling process.

Travel tip: Always haggle! I used to be very wimpy about haggling, and actually it wasn’t until this trip that I started to feel more comfortable doing it (I’m a good Midwestern girl, what can I say).

Don’t know where to start? First, ask for the price. Sometimes the shopkeeper will try and trick you into naming the first price, but unless you know the real cost of the cheap knock-off knickknack that you are buying, either don’t do it or seriously lowball. When the shopkeeper names the price, always try to offer half (or even lower!) to start out. Eventually there will be this seesawing towards the actual price point. Be strong and hold your end of that teeter-totter down! My auntie in Vietnam is champ at this and she has her own little techniques, such as loudly complaining about every flaw in the product for everyone around to hear.

For me, what made me get over my fear of being “mean” during the haggling process was this: I don’t actually need to buy this thing, and the very worst possible outcome of the whole transaction is that I don’t buy this thing. Plus, that same thing is being sold by about fifty dozen other shops in the market. Walk away!

So I’m haggling for this T-shirt, while a Spanish couple comes up, admiring my haggling technique. I buy the shirt, and we chat for a bit. They seemed pleasant and friendly, and as always when traveling, I am excited to meet new people – we’d parted ways with the Irish couple earlier, and were looking for replacements, I suppose.

Though these Spaniards weren’t exactly as pleasant as the Irish couple had been. We started to see signs of this at the beginning, and as the night went on it became increasingly apparent that they would not be good replacements for the Irish. I’ll call them Daniel and Graciela. Daniel asked me where we were from, and when I replied “we’re Americans,” he said, “oh, then I bet you can’t find Spain on a map.” What the hell, dude. Spain is like the easiest European country, barring Italy, to find. I protested as such, and then of course Twinkles chimed in and admitted that she didn’t know where Spain was. “Is it near France?” Dammit, Twinkles! Keep your geography deficiencies under wraps around judgy Europeans!

We kept chatting, and I proposed we sit down – instead of blocking the busy thoroughfare with our chitchat – and grab a beer. We went over to one of the food stalls and grabbed a beer, and immediately they complained about how expensive it is. “Well, it is a Muslim country,” I pointed out. We learned more of their story. They had just taken jobs in China, which meant that they were more accustomed to Chinese prices. As I mentioned before, Malaysia is quite expensive compared to places like China and other Southeast Asian countries. They seemed pretty friendly and interesting, and we talked for about about the different places we’d been, life in China vs. life in Korea, etc. We discussed travel plans, and mentioned that we were headed down to the town of Melaka the next day. They talked about maybe joining us.

A woman came up to check and see if we needed anything, and Graciela began to try and converse with her in Chinese. The woman was having problems understanding; she might not even have been Chinese, but a Malay or a Nepalese person who happened to be on staff there. Anyway, the Spaniards were getting frustrated, and though their Spanish was way too fast and accented for me to pick up, my having retained so little of the six years of Spanish classes I’d taken (yes, that is pretty sad), I did hear Daniel refer to the lady as a “puta china.” I blinked and said nothing, but maybe had a little bit of stinkface, and so Daniel noticed that I had caught what he’d said.

“Why’d you call her that?”

“Oh, I just said that because I didn’t think anyone here would understand.”

O…kay. He then proceeded to explain that he likes to use lots of vulgar language, which is all very well and fine (I have friends who can’t go more than a sentence without cursing), but it seems a lot more mean-spirited if you’re cursing someone in a language they don’t understand. At least have the balls to straight up say, “look, lady, you’re being a total twat-waffle,” in terms she could understand.

I guess that was the second big warning flag. It’s hard to say why, but despite previous weirdness, we decided to go out with them to a Second Location. Another travel tip: never go with a grouchy Spaniard to a Second Location. We split a cab to our area of town, which is full of clubs and bars and things (it’s a tourist area, so it caters to non-Muslims). They grumbled about the cab fare, which split four-ways ended up being less than $2 USD each, and then, when we walked into the club, Daniel grumbled about the fact that nobody appeared to be dancing at, like, 10:30.

Twinkles went to the restroom. I ordered a drink, which was quite expensive – again, Muslim country, don’t come here for the booze! After I ordered, I accidentally returned the menu to the waiter instead of giving it to Daniel, which he then grumbled about. Oops. He walked over to the bar, and then proceeded to get in an argument with the bartender, because apparently they were trying to charge him more than what was listed in the menu. Yes, that was a shitty thing to do, but the way he reacted just seemed so heated (these Spanish tempers!) He yelled at the bartender, who offered him another drink, which was refused – “I’m leaving.” I dashed into the bathroom to gather Twinkles, and we left.

Walked over to another club – again, nobody was dancing, as it was still a little early. Daniel seemed strangely bothered by this, even though from what I’ve heard of going out in Spain, don’t people typically start late and go dancing till the wee hours of the morning? Maybe my Spain info is inaccurate. “Why don’t we just grab a beer, chill out and wait?” I suggested, so we walked over to a nearby restaurant – oddly enough, the same restaurant we’d eaten at with the maybe-traffickers. Graciela noticed a promotional poster for a sale on the wall: get three beers for the price of one. We double checked with the wait staff, and that particular promotional was not in effect. “Then why you put the poster on the wall?” demanded Graciela, and soon she got in a verbal scrap with the waiter, and we had to leave that place.

Oh, boy. These guys were not chill at all – they were both high-maintenance AND cheap, which is truly the worst combination. High-maintenance people with expensive tastes at least want to do something, instead of shooting down every possible avenue of action. The Spaniards wanted to drink but were grumbling at the prices (which, by European and U.S. standards, were still on the cheap end), they wanted to dance but were grumbling at having to wait for the people to show up, and they ruled out every other possibility including just sitting and chatting, which is free.

I looked over at Twinkles, who, to my horror, was bringing up the Melaka trip again. “Only if you guys want to!” I said, waving my hands, looking a little maniacal and maybe a little too obviously hinting that they should not in fact go, but I was no mood to have my trip ruined by these Negativos.

Yet another travel tip: Should you happen to come across any trip-ruiners in your travels, cut them off immediately. Negativity spreads like gangrene. It’s your precious vacation with limited days in which to bask in the fun of travel. It is not your turn to babysit grown adults!

We walked by another club, which unlike the other two was packed, and both Graciela and Twinkles still seemed to want to try and party. But Daniel was still fed up about the bait-and-switch drink prices – “I hate Kuala Lumpur!”, and I finally realized just how genuinely taxing it was to be around them, so we parted ways.

After they left, I turned to Twinkles and said, “You know what? I’d rather go with human traffickers to a Second Location, instead of traveling with those guys. Yikes.”

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